How to visit Federal Iraq in 2025

Alexander
May 12, 2025
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Often associated with conflict and instability, Iraq is rarely seen for what it truly is: a land steeped in ancient history, striking architecture, rich culture, and some of the warmest hospitality in the world. Beyond the headlines lies a country that offers raw, authentic travel experiences unlike anywhere else. Iraq remains one of the world’s most underrated and rewarding destinations.

🇮🇶 Federal Iraq and Iraqi Kurdistan

Iraq is essentially split into two distinct regions: Federal Iraq and Iraqi Kurdistan in the north. These regions are not just geographically different but also have separate laws, militaries, visas, histories, and cultures.

Iraqi Kurdistan:

The Kurdish people are the largest ethnic group without their own country. Though the Kurds have had a significant presence in Turkey, Syria, Iran, and Iraq, only Iraq has granted them a degree of autonomy with the Kurdistan Region in the north. This region, with Erbil as its capital, has its own government, military (Peshmerga), and even its own visa policy. Despite this autonomy, the Kurdish region still technically remains part of Iraq. For a full Guide of this region read my Blog Post How To Travel To Iraqi Kurdistan

Federal Iraq:

The rest of Iraq, which is often simply referred to as Federal Iraq, is governed by the central government in Baghdad. It has a more Arabic culture, with Shiite and Sunni communities being the predominant religious groups.

Both regions have their own identity, and understanding these differences is key to traveling through the country. This Guide focuses on Federal Iraq.

How To Travel Iraqi Kurdistan

🪪 Visa for Iraq

When traveling to Iraq, it’s important to know that there are two different types of visas depending on where you’re heading:

Federal Iraq Visa – covers all of Iraq, including Kurdistan Region
Iraqi Kurdistan Visa – only valid for the Kurdish autonomous region in the north.

In the past, both visas were available on arrival, but now you’ll need to apply online in advance.

Federal Iraq Visa

Cost: Around $160 USD
Note: The official visa website is known for payment issues, especially with non-Iraqi credit/debit cards.
Apply here: Federal Iraq Visa Application
Visa Updates in this Facebook Group: Iraqi Travel Community

Iraqi Kurdistan Visa

Cost: $80 USD
Generally easier to obtain and the application process is more straightforward.
Apply here: Kurdish Visa Application

Where can you go?

With a Kurdish Visa you can enter all parts in Irqi Kurdistan and roam around freely, though occasional passport controls might still occur. This means you have access to Erbil, Dohuk, Rawanduz, Akre, Lalish, Choman and more.

Note: Depending on the mood of the border officers, you might even be able to go to Mosul, which lies in Federal Iraq, with your Kurdish visa. I heard from people who managed to do this and others who had to turn around at one of the checkpoints. However if you are travelling with a guide, you can definetly visit Mosul on a Kurdish Visa.

⚠️ Update 2025

As of Spring 2025 you can use your kurdish Visa to legally travel to Mosul, Kirkuk and even as far South as Baghdad.

However most Officers in Charge have not heard of this new Rule and I haven’t heard of anyone who reached Baghdad on a kurdish Visa. Getting to Mosul is now definetly possible though.

✈️ How to enter Iraq

✈️ Entering Iraq By Air

Iraq’s main international airports are located in Baghdad, Basra, and soon Mosul (currently preparing to reopen for international flights). These airports serve as the primary gateways for travelers holding a Federal Iraq visa.

🚐 Entering Iraq By Land

Overland entry into Federal Iraq is possible from Iran, Jordan, Kuwait, and Saudi Arabia. As of now, the Syrian border remains closed, following the collapse of the Assad regime in December 2024.

⚠️ Why You Can’t Enter Federal Iraq from Turkey

While Turkey shares a border with Iraq, you cannot enter Federal Iraq this way. The Turkish land border connects only to Iraqi Kurdistan, an autonomous region with its own immigration controls.
If you cross from Turkey, you’ll enter with a Kurdish visa, but because there’s no official Iraqi immigration checkpoint at the internal boundary between Kurdistan and the rest of Iraq, you won’t receive a Federal Iraq visa stamp.

🗺️ My favourite Spots in Federal Iraq

🔗 Want to explore Mosul in more depth? Check out my full guide: How to Visit Mosul in 2025

Mosul

Probably the most well-known Iraqi city to foreign ears, Mosul has become synonymous with the tragic headlines of the past decade. Located not far from the Syrian border, Mosul fell into the hands of ISIS in 2014, and for the next three years, its people lived under fear, repression, and violence until the city was liberated in 2017 by a joint force of Iraqi and Kurdish military.

Despite its recent history, Mosul is an incredible place to visit.

The city is split by the Tigris River:

On the west side, you’ll still see the scars of war—crumbling buildings, bullet holes, and entire neighborhoods left in ruins. It’s like walking through a living museum, a powerful reminder of what the city has endured.
But don’t let this be your only impression. On the east side, Mosul feels full of energy and life. Streets are busy, markets are open, and the people welcome you with the famous Iraqi hospitality.

Walk through the city, and you’ll be invited for tea or a meal every few minutes. The warmth of the people contrasts sharply with the city’s past, and it’s that contrast that makes Mosul one of the most memorable places I’ve visited in Iraq.

Hatra

Hatra is a stunning UNESCO World Heritage Site, once a powerful religious and trading center of the Parthian Empire, blending Greek, Roman, and Eastern architecture in the heart of the Iraqi desert.

But like many ancient wonders in Iraq, Hatra has a more recent, tragic chapter. In 2015, the site was taken over by ISIS, who used the temple complex as a training ground and stage for propaganda. You’ll still see rusted bullet casings scattered across the sand, and many of the temple’s once-majestic statues, like the Sun God Maran, were destroyed with sledgehammers.

Hatra is located over 100 km south of Mosul, and reaching it independently can be challenging. There are no shared taxis to the site, but you might get lucky connecting with other travelers through the “Iraqi Travel Community” Facebook group, where people often organize shared drivers.

🎟️ Entrance Ticket: 25,000 IQD
Available for purchase in Mosul.
Location here

Baghdad

Once the center of the Islamic Golden Age, Baghdad is a place where centuries of history and culture collide with modern life and recent scars.

Spend some time at Tahrir Square, the symbolic heart of modern Iraqi protest culture. One of the most iconic landmarks in Baghdad, and perhaps even in all of Iraq, is the Martyr’s Monument, built to honor those who died in the Iran-Iraq War during the 1980s. Its striking teal, shell-like domes dominate the skyline and make it a powerful visual symbol of the country’s history. After years of closure, the National Museum of Iraq is finally open again, showcasing priceless Mesopotamian artifacts that tell the story of one of the world’s oldest civilizations.

⚠️Note that staying in Samarra overnight in not possible.

Samarra

While I haven’t managed to visit this site myself yet, the Malwiya Minaret in Samarra is a truly jaw-dropping and unique landmark. This spiraling tower is part of the Great Mosque of Samarra and stands 52 meters tall, making it one of the most distinctive structures in the Islamic world. Built in the 9th century, it once served as a call to prayer and a symbol of Abbasid architectural innovation.

Samarra itself is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and was once the capital of the Abbasid Caliphate, the third caliphate to succeed the Prophet Muhammad. Due to a major suicide bombing at the al-Askari Shrine in 2006, the city now has some of the heaviest military presence and security checkpoints in all of Iraq.

🚌 How to get around in Iraq

Getting around Federal Iraq is relatively straightforward once you understand the local transport system. The key word to know is “Garage”. Each city has one, and it’s the main hub for shared taxis and vans going to other destinations.

🚕 Shared Taxis: The most common and efficient way to travel between cities.
- Once a car has 4 passengers, it departs. If you’re in a hurry and want to leave immediately, you can pay for all 4 seats.
- A shared taxi from Mosul to Baghdad costs around 30,000 IQD.
- Within cities, regular taxi rides usually cost under 5,000 IQD.
- ⚠️ Be prepared to wait until the car fills if you don’t pay for extra seats

🚐 Shared Vans: Same system as shared taxis, but larger vehicles with more passengers. Cheaper but slower due to longer waiting time for more passengers.
✈️ Domestic Flights: While domestic flights do exist (e.g. Baghdad to Basra), they tend to be expensive and not worth it for most travelers.
🚙 Hitchhiking: I personally only hitchhiked in Iraqi Kurdistan, where it was incredibly easy and rides often came within a minute. It will probably be a little bit harder in Federal Iraq but when you want to go from a village to a nearby city you should be able to find someone to take you. Just use common sense and be aware of the risk of hitchhiking.

⚠️ No matter which way you decide there will be plenty of Military Checkpoints along the way between two cities. Sometimes they just let you pass but quite frequently you need to get out of the taxi, show your passport and Visa and give an Officer your phone number. One time I even got asked for my mother’s name. I just acme up with something random on the spot and I still don’t know what he needed this information for.

🛏️ Accomodation in Iraq

When it comes to finding a place to stay in Iraq, the best advice I can give you is this: don’t book in advance.

Most of the hotels you’ll find online are either luxury options or wildly overpriced. In both Federal Iraq and Iraqi Kurdistan, the better approach is to:

Search the area on Google Maps,
Read recent reviews, and
Walk in and ask for a room.

💡 During my entire time traveling through Iraq, I never once encountered a hotel that was fully booked.

Budget hotels usually range from 15,000 to 30,000 IQD per night (~10–20 USD).
Hotels listed online often start around 50,000 IQD or more, for no clear reason other than being bookable via international platforms.

Most hotels include breakfast, and staff are generally helpful even if English is limited.

🏠 Local Hospitality

There’s a good chance you’ll make friends along the way and sometimes, those friendships come with a warm invitation to stay at someone’s family home.

During my journey, I accepted these kinds of offers on three different occasions.

🙏 While you should never take advantage of people’s hospitality, in Iraq, these invitations are often genuine and offered with pride and generosity. Just use your common sense:

Don’t immediately accept overnight offers from strangers.
Spend the day with them first, get to know them, and trust your instincts.
A bit of caution goes a long way — even in a country full of kindness.
Be respectful! This isn’t a free hotel. It’s a personal, cultural exchange. Think of it as being invited into someone’s life, not just their home. Most families are simply curious about you, your story, and your journey, and offering you a place to stay is their way of showing warmth and interest.

👮 Safety in Iraq

Yes, you probably all waited for this part: Is Iraq safe to visit?

Safety is often the first concern when it comes to traveling in Iraq. Many people immediately associate the country with Saddam Hussein, ISIS, or decades of conflict. It’s no surprise that most foreign governments still advise against all non-essential travel.

But Iraq has changed. The war against ISIS ended with the recapture of Mosul in 2017, and since then, the country has entered a period of relative stability. In recent years, Iraq has slowly reopened to tourism, and more travelers are discovering its deep history, welcoming people, and raw, unfiltered beauty.

I can only speak from my own experience, but during my time in both Federal Iraq and Iraqi Kurdistan, I felt extremely safe. I was met with nothing but kindness, hospitality, and respect, and I never encountered a situation that felt threatening or unsafe.

That said, I won’t claim Iraq is 100% safe; no place in the world truly is. Use common sense, stay informed, and avoid too remote or politically sensitive regions.

🌐 Sim Card and Internet in Iraq

Getting connected in Iraq is easy and affordable.

📱 SIM Cards

You can purchase a local SIM card either at the airport or in city centers across both Federal Iraq and Iraqi Kurdistan.

I paid 20,000 IQD for 20 GB of data.
Activation was quick, and the mobile internet was fast and reliable, even in smaller towns.

⚠️ The Kurdish Provider Fast Link, which comes with similar pricing, won’t work outside of the kurdish region.

🛜 Wi-Fi

Most hotels and guesthouses offer free Wi-Fi, but:

It’s often unstable, with frequent dropouts or slow speeds.
Don’t rely on it for video calls or large uploads — your mobile data will likely perform better.

🏧Money Exchange, ATMs & Currency

💰 Currency

The local currency is the Iraqi Dinar (IQD)
1 Euro ≈ 1,451 IQD (rate may fluctuate slightly)

In Iraq you will need to bring Cash. Lots of Cash.

Hotels won’t accept cards. Food, Transportation or Guides will be paid in Cash as well.

Exchanging money is fairly easy in the bigger cities like Baghdad, Erbil, and Mosul. You’ll find proper exchange offices, but also more unusual setups, like men sitting on the street behind a glass box filled with thousands of dollars. It might sound strange, but that’s genuinely how many people operate. Even more surprising, these boxes are often left unattended during prayer times or overnight, which says a lot about the trust and safety in many areas.

Don’t rely on ATMs. They’re hard to find, and most don’t accept foreign cards. As far as I know, there’s just one working ATM in Mosul and one in Erbil that supports international withdrawals. Baghdad should have a few more working ATMs though. So again: bring plenty of cash with you, it’s the only reliable way to pay your way through Iraq.

🧭 Independent Travel in Iraq

🔗 When you need a Guide just ask in this Facebook Group

Traveling independently in Iraq is certainly more challenging than in many other countries, but it’s absolutely doable and deeply rewarding if you’re up for the adventure.

Most locals speak little to no English, so communication often comes down to hand gestures, translation apps, or a cousin on the phone who speaks a few words of English and is thrilled to talk to a foreigner.

Another challenge is the lack of online infrastructure. You won’t find many hotels, tours, or transportation options available for online booking. For travelers who like to plan every detail in advance, this can feel intimidating. But once you get used to figuring things out as you go, you’ll realize it’s part of the experience (see [Accommodation]).

Reaching certain destinations, like the Iraqi Marshes or Hatra, can be difficult without a guide. It’s not impossible, just time-consuming and often dependent on a bit of luck and flexibility. Hiring a local guide definitely makes things easier, especially in remote areas, but it comes at a cost.

Guide prices vary widely depending on the location, duration, and level of service:

A day trip to Hatra from Mosul: Around $100
A local tour in Mosul (if you’re already in the city): From $50
A full-day trip from Erbil to Mosul: Expect to pay up to $200

Hiring a guide is also the easiest way to smoothly visit Mosul on a Kurdish Visa. When doing this without a guide there a a chance that you’ll have to turn around at one of the Military Checkpoints between Erbil and Mosul.

In short, traveling independently in Iraq requires patience, flexibility and some experience.

😊 Hospitality in Iraq

One of the most defining aspects of traveling through Iraq is the extraordinary warmth of its people. The hospitality here rivals that of countries like Pakistan, where welcoming strangers is part of the culture. Locals are often thrilled to meet tourists and even ask for Selfies with you frequently.

Tea invitations are common and especially when a local speaks English they’ll love to hear your travel stories. I even got invited to a family’s dinner or to stay the night almost every day. Of course, it’s important to accept such invitations with respect and genuine interest. These aren’t just free meals or places to sleep, but moments of real cultural exchange. As long as you’re open, kind, and cautious, you’ll likely find that Iraqi hospitality becomes one of your favorite memories of the trip.

⛅ Best Time to Visit Iraq

The best time to visit Iraq is between March and May, or from October to January. During these months, temperatures are more pleasant and travel is far less exhausting compared to the scorching summer heat. In the summer, especially in the south, temperatures often exceed 45°C (113°F), making everyday activities slower and more draining.

If you travel in spring, you’ll catch Iraqi Kurdistan at its most beautiful, with lush green hills and colorful wildflowers that completely change the landscape.

Personally I would avoid visiting during Ramadan. While it’s a culturally rich time, life slows down significantly. Many restaurants close during the day, and locals spend more time indoors, which can make it harder to connect with people and enjoy the social atmosphere Iraq is known for.

🥡 Food in Iraq

One of the best parts of traveling through Iraq is the local cuisine.

Masgouf – Iraq’s National Dish

If there’s one dish you absolutely have to try, it’s Masgouf. This traditional meal features freshwater carp, typically from the Tigris or Euphrates rivers. The fish is split open, marinated with olive oil, salt, tamarind, and spices, then slowly cooked upright over an open fire for hours. The result is a smoky, tender fish with a crispy outer layer and rich, juicy flavor. It’s commonly served with rice, grilled tomatoes, and plenty of flatbread. You will find it everywhere.

Mosuli Kubba – A Northern Specialty

Another highlight is Mosuli Kubba, a specialty from Mosul that’s unlike any other kubba in the region. Instead of being deep-fried balls or domes, Mosuli Kubba is a large, flat pie, baked or pan-fried and cut into slices like a pizza. It’s made with a bulgur-based dough and stuffed with seasoned minced meat, onions, and sometimes nuts or raisins. Hearty, flavorful, and deeply satisfying.

Maklouba

Maklouba (or “Maqluba”, meaning “upside down” in Arabic) is a striking dish both in flavor and presentation. It’s made by layering meat (often lamb or chicken), rice, and vegetables like eggplant, tomatoes, or potatoes in a pot. Once cooked, the pot is flipped upside down onto a serving tray, revealing beautiful layers of tender ingredients infused with spices and broth. The

More Common Flavors

Aside from the classics, Iraqi cuisine includes:

Dolma (stuffed vegetables like grape leaves or onions)
Tashreeb (bread soaked in rich broth, often with lamb)
Lamb skewers grilled over coal, served with pickles and rice

👗 How to dress in Iraq

When it comes to clothing in Iraq, the general rule is: the further south you travel, the more conservative it gets. While Iraqi Kurdistan is relatively relaxed and similar in dress code to neighboring Turkey, the southern regions follow much stricter cultural and religious norms, especially for women.

Mosul:
In Mosul, most men wear jeans and t-shirts, and it’s not unusual to see locals wearing shorts, though it’s still best to ensure your knees are covered. Women can go out in modest clothing such as t-shirts and loose pants. A hijab is not required in public spaces outside of religious sites. You’ll rarely see women wearing niqab or gloves here.

Baghdad:
As Iraq’s capital, Baghdad is relatively more liberal. Men should still wear long pants, and women are advised to cover their arms. While it’s wise to carry a hijab with you, you likely won’t need to wear it unless visiting religious places.

Najaf, Nasiriya & Basra:
These southern cities are among the most conservative in the country. In Basra, for example, a solo female traveler I met was yelled at by local women for not wearing a hijab. In these regions, you’ll find nearly all women wearing an abaya, and many also wear the niqab and gloves. If you’re a female traveler, it’s strongly recommended to wear a hijab and ensure your arms and legs are fully covered.

🤑 Budget Travel in Iraq

Traveling in Iraq is definitely more affordable than in most European countries, though it’s not quite as cheap as some of its neighbors like Iran. How much you spend really comes down to your travel style. If you’re on a tight budget and watch your expenses closely, you can manage on around $30 per day. On the other end of the spectrum, a more comfortable or luxury trip, especially with higher-end hotels or private guides, can easily exceed $150 per night, just for accommodation.

Day-to-day costs for food and transportation are very reasonable. Shared taxis, local meals, and even some entrance fees are budget-friendly. Where your money will go the fastest is accommodation (if booked online) and hiring a guide, especially for hard-to-reach sites like Hatra or the Marshes.

💡 Tips for Traveling Iraq on a Budget

Don’t book hotels online
The options listed on booking platforms are often either overpriced or aimed at business travelers. As explained in the accommodation section, it’s best to walk in, compare prices, and negotiate directly.
Don’t skimp on food
Iraqi cuisine is delicious, filling, and usually affordable. Street food, local restaurants, and shared meals with locals are part of the experience and well worth every dinar.
Look for group tours via Facebook
Especially in the “Iraq Travelers Café” Facebook group, you can often connect with other travelers to split the cost of a guide or driver. This can significantly reduce expenses for trips to harder-to-reach places like the Iraqi Marshes or ancient ruins.

Travel Type	Accomendation	Food	Transportation	Activities	Total
Budget	15$	5$	5$	0$	30$
Average	25$	10$	10$	10$	55$
Luxury	100$	30$	15$	25$	170$

Conclusion

Iraq is one of those countries where your friends and family will ask you if you are crazy before visiting. It’s still strongly associated with war, ISIS, and terrorism, just labeled as unsafe and off-limits. And honestly, that’s incredibly sad. Because, just like in Pakistan and Iran, you’ll find some of the kindest people out there, welcoming you into their homes with open arms and a big pot of tea.

I’m genuinely happy to see more and more travelers discovering Iraq’s beauty and rich heritage. It’s the cradle of civilization yet it remains refreshingly off the beaten path. Iraq feels real! A place where locals are proud to show you what their country truly is, one conversation at a time.